Next-Level Pizza Spots
Three dough geniuses recently debuted restaurants that do pies right — crisp and chewy with perfectly charred edges
BY JEN MURPHY — Fall 2018
James Beard–nominated chef Philip Krajeck launched this pizza-centric restaurant as the follow-up to his Italian-influenced Rolf and Daughters. He serves up pizzas with veggie-focused seasonal sides and natural wines.
Oven: Two wood-fired brick ovens from Sonoma-based Mugnaini reach up to 900 degrees and cook pies in about 90 seconds.
Crust: Naturally leavened dough (i.e. flour, water, and indigenous wild yeast) is a mix of organic Lindley Mills and Carolina Ground flour, milled in small batches.
Pie to try: Krajeck’s salad pie, an ode to seasonal produce, features piles of flavorful herbs, lettuces, and flowers.
Side order: Radishes spritzed with sauvignon blanc and served with a sea lettuce-dusted mascarpone-and-butter blend
Details: 615-610-2595; goodasfolk.com
Perfect Union Pizza Co.
Chef Nick Badovinus, founder of Fireside Pies, the local chain that raised the bar for Dallas pizza, is behind this artisanal pie spot. Artist-designed skateboard decks, an American flag, and a vintage Ducati motorcycle give the white-tiled interiors a rock ’n’ roll vibe. Badovinus divides the menu equally between red and white pies.
Oven: A deck oven fired at 700 degrees bakes pies for about three minutes.
Crust: Dough punched twice, fermented for 24 hours, and dusted with semolina is the secret behind the crackly, blistered thin crust.
Pie to try: Jonny Slapps, a white pie with guanciale, broken egg, and pea tendril
Side order: Meatball and garlic knot slider
Details: 214-559-4245; perfectunionpizzaco.com
New York City
Una Pizzeria Napoletana
Anthony Mangieri’s pizzas are about as close to Neapolitan-style nirvana as you can get stateside. So when he returned to New York City this spring, even Manhattan’s most die-hard pizza snobs rejoiced. Unlike his three successive and now shuttered locations in New Jersey, New York’s East Village, and San Francisco, his fourth pizzeria offers small plates and desserts courtesy of chef-partners Fabiàn von Hauske Valtierra and Jeremiah Stone, co-owners of Manhattan restaurants Contra and Wildair.
Oven: Handcrafted Acunto ovens can be found in Naples’ most legendary pizzerias. Wood-fired to about 900 degrees, pizzas cook uniformly in about 90 seconds.
Crust: Naturally leavened, double-zero-flour dough makes for a perfectly chewy, tender, charred crust.
Pie to try: Mangieri is a master of minimalism; his Margherita would hold its own in Naples.
Side order: Chickpeas and lobster crudo
Details: 646-692-3475; unapizza.com
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